evelyn in taiwan

Sunday, July 09, 2006

non sequitor taichung

There is a pizza restaurant on my way home from work that sells pizza beagles. I tried to stop in and tell them that that is disgusting, but I don’t think I got my point across. Eventually I went away.

There is a size “F” here, which is Taiwan’s equivalent of “one size fits all.” I am discovering that “all” is an extremely relative term in this context.

I was annoyed with myself the other day because I forgot to stop by the 7-11 next door while on my way home from work to get some water. Then I realized that I could see three 7-11s from where I was standing, so really, no problem.

When I was up in Taipei, I needed to go to an ATM. I started walking over to a nearby bank, and my friend Patty gave me this horrified look (an “oh, god, you aren’t gong to eat that!” kind of look) and insisted that I go to the respectable 7-11 ATM.

There are a lot of dogs here. Just hanging out, running around in the street. This made me a little nervous at first, but it turns out that the only dogs that are barky and aggressive are the ones that are tied up. The feral ones that roam the streets are just nice, chill doggies. Dirty, but nice.

I went to the botanical gardens in Taichung, and there was a school group there. (Because there is always a school group, everywhere. If I went to the malt-liquor-and-shotgun store there would be a school group trying to enrich itself and running around after a tour guide.) Anyway, the group had matching t-shirts (always a school group tell tale sign) which were yellow and had “Good Monkey!” written on them. If the kids hadn’t all been so small I would have mugged one of them and stolen a shirt.

After walking around outside here for an hour or so, I become drenched with sweat. Doesn’t matter how hot it actually is, it is just so humid here that my body doesn’t know how to react, so, I don’t know, I guess it goes into some sort of confused emergency mode and gets rid of all the water in me. So I duck into expensive boutiques and stare at terrible clothing for long periods of time because expensive boutiques are always air conditioned.

Taichung is a friendly city. It is not uncommon for someone just to day ‘Hi!” to you as they walk by. For me, it is usually either another white person, or a little kid. I think with the white people we both feel like we know each other because we are both white, and no one else is. So we’re like, hey, what’s up? how’s it going being white? See ya later! And with little kids, it is the ones who have been taking English classes. Some little kid will just shout out “Hello! How are you?!?” as they are walking by with their parents. Which is really cute, and then I answer back, which the kid thinks is funny, because I think that for the kids, English as a real language is very distant and surreal thing, so when they experiment on a real person and it works, it is so funny and weird. As if it is so bizarre, that person speaks this foreign language all the time!

Also, kids are up late in this city. You see people wandering around with toddlers at 10 o’clock at night. I guess the parents are preparing them for the Taiwan school system. I was talking to some kids about this. They don’t really get serious about school until 6th grade or so, when they have to take a test that will determine which junior high they will go to (which in turn helps determine which high school they go to, which college, what kind of job, etc) School goes from 7/7:30 am to about 4/4:30. Descriptions varied, but it doesn’t sound like they get a lot of free time during the school day. One kid told me that they eat lunch in their classrooms. They also take a nap after lunch, which is cute, but one girl told me that she got a grade for naptime. In addition to this, a few hours of homework each evening and during their 2 month summer vacation, cram school to prepare for the school year. But the kids I have chatted with seemed pretty typical of American kids the same age. I guess you can normalize to anything.

While I was walking the other day I passed a moped parking lot. It was big and dark and dirty, and had a huge statue of Greek water nymphs in the middle of it.

There are some fat people here. Not too many, but some. I don’t know how they find clothing.

I think I am acclimating to the taxis. I took a cab home the other day, and the guy drove at a normal rate of speed, and went a way that the drivers don’t normally go, which felt a little circuitous. These things made me sort of anxious, so I kept making twitchy sighing noises from the back seat and looking at my watch and the fare meter. Then he started running red lights, and I relaxed visibly. It was weird.

Taiwanese music is sweet and nice and repetitive; usually some woman crooning about love or sadness or whatever. One of my kids told me that the term for it is “guava music.”

At the fruit stand the other day a guy walked up to me and demanded “How tall?” At first I was confused, and thought he wanted me to guess his height, but then I realized he wanted to know how tall I was. I didn’t know, in centimeters, so he walked away dissatisfied.

At that same fruit stand a few days later, I was standing in line with everyone else, waiting to buy my mangos and apples, and some guy just walked straight up to the front of the line and plopped his fruit onto the counter and expected to be waited on. I thought that maybe it was because I was as the front of the line, and I am white, or because all the people in the line were women. But then I realized that it was probably just that he is a taxi driver. The clerk yelled at him and he went, surprised, to the end of the line.

I leave Taichung today, so yesterday was the last day that I went to the Starbucks by work. I felt like I should say good bye, since the Starbucks people have practically been my social network, but I wasn’t quite sure how to frame it. I don’t know if there is an accepted etiquette for saying good bye to your local Starbucks staff. The girl who made my latte was named Purple.

8 Comments:

At 1:19 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Sounds like 7-11's are as common as Dunkin Donuts in New Hampshire. I travel occasionally to the hospitals in Nashua and I counted recently on the drive back 101a from Nashua to Milford at least 9 of them! the drive is 12 minutes when I get all the lights. Thank heavens I can stop and coffee-up every other minute on the days I really need caffeinating. Safe travel back to Taipei - there must be a farewell Taichung melody!
Cassie

 
At 2:57 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

It must be genetic - whenever we drive anywhere, Evelyn audibly counts the Denny's we pass.

 
At 3:52 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

why Denny's? they serve meat! horrors!
Cassie

 
At 5:40 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

From Jane. I remember well the humidity in Okinawa, and you are even closer to the equator. We had light bulbs in the base of our closets to circulate air and heat, otherwise the clothing would mildew. We also put an electric heating blanket on the bed for a few minutes before turning in, not for heat, certaintly, but to try to dry the bedding out. Keep on posting! You make me chuckle! Did K tell you his ATM story?

 
At 11:32 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

The 7-11s sound so much more useful than the one's I know and avoid. It looks like the asian (or at least taiwanese) primary school teachers have figured out that "field trip" equates with "no lesson plan today" and that its easier to manage the little rascals in a moving herd than trying to keep them boxed up in the same room all day.

I must confess the whole "hello kitty" phenom passed me by. It is interesting that an asian airline would adopt a phrase in a foreign language that describes a childrens' image/toy as their corporate slogan. I think I would enjoy the translated transcripts of the boardroom meetings leading to the advert campaign.

As for "good monkey", you must get a tee-shirt made up with the equivalent in chinese characters for -k. I bet it would look good on a ball cap. I assume they have access to the same sorts of computer controlled embroidery sewing machines.

Tall people are always being asked how tall they are. It is a question so ubiquitous I suspect it originates in the brain stem from a time when you as a female moose would only mate with the most physically imposing guy with the biggest antlers. size=health=vigor=survival=blah blah blah. It is a question I've been asked by almost everybody I've ever known. When someone asks, just give them a number that borders on (but is not quite) totally outrageous. In your case just say 170 cm (5'11"). The people shorter than you will believe it. If you hadn't already exceeded their ability to judge proportion they would never have asked and it doesn't really matter and they'll have a story to tell when they get home.

Please write more often!
p.

 
At 6:33 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hmm, I thought you were 170 cm tall, have you shrunk? Maybe it's 170 lbs?

Cassie

 
At 9:08 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Ev is 5'8", or so she claims. Most days she's a mm or so taller than me (don't tell her I admitted that). 68 inches times 2.54cm/inch equals about 172.7 cm.

So, she'd actually be shortchanging herself a little. I think Peter meant 180cm, which is 5'11".

 
At 8:13 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

From your Dad. Just to follow up on the hinge things mentioned by your Mother, I have only bumped the microwave once. Can I help it that it broke the catch? At least we found a replacement for less than $100! Also the door on the china closet in the dining room is now fixed. They sent the wrong hinge first but after I explained to them what was happening when I installed it, they sent the right one. The doors now close for the first time in ten years. As I told your mother, I may be slow but I am sure.

The rest of my time is spent eihter helping at the Food Kitchen or the Food Bank. It keeps me busy.

 

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